After a departure last season to a different show space for an under-the-Big-Top circus and dance themed collection, Dior artistic director Maria Grazia Chiuri is back home at the Musee Rodin sculpture garden (the maison’s usual show space) “rediscovering and celebrating the richness of House codes.” According to show notes, Teddy Girls, the British girl gangs in the 1950s who wore Edwardian-style suits, scarves, jeans, and leather jackets, served as one of the primary inspirations for the fall collection.
Chiuri continues to emphasize feminism in her collections, opening this fall show with a poem about toppling the patriarchy, read by Italian conceptual artist Tomaso Binga. The Pretender’s “Don’t Get Me Wrong” blared and the first look out was a statement tee that read "Sisterhood Is Global" paired with a wool midi-skirt, a bucket hat, and a belt bag. As Amy Winehouse’s “Me & Mr. Jones” and other powerful women’s voices filled the room, models in sharp gray suits topped with black patent leather coats, boiler suits, and plaid pants paired with short sleeve shirts took to the runway. A collection far less romantic than ones past, Chiuri is offering new options for Dior’s customers who love a “borrowed from the boys” style.
Buffalo check is a key print of the season, in shades of white, green, and red. Cut into trousers, field jackets, jumpsuits, and even bucket hats, get ready to see this print a lot come fall. And about those bucket hats—the Stephen Jones-designed toppers are pure Insta-bait, sure to dominate the street style scene and the Instagram feed come fall. Other It accessories (and this is where Chiuri shines) include wide leather belts, shrunken saddle bags now fashioned as fanny packs, and kitten heels that are clearly made for walking. While there were lovely options for formal evening events, Chiuri's sportswear was the star this season.
Nikki Ogunnaike is the senior digital director of Harper's Bazaar, where she oversees a team of editors and writers who cover the culture of style across the website, video, and social media. She has previously held roles at GQ, ELLE, Glamour, InStyle, and Vanity Fair. You may also recognize Nikki from her time as the host of Snapchat’s Online, IRL and IGTV's The Run Through. In her free time Nikki enjoys running half marathons, learning about wine, and watching reality TV without an ounce of shame.
