In 1964 writer Marshall McLuhan famously coined the phrase, "The medium is the message." By that, he meant that the medium can imbue as much meaning as the content delivered through that medium. The famous phrase can be applied to John Galliano's fall 2019 collection that was shown today in Paris. The clothing, presented on a plain white runway set to the soundtrack of Swan Lake, focused on odd shapes and eye-catching silhouettes, but in neutral colors like black, putty, khaki, and grey. Edited down to just over 40 looks (most shows we've seen thus far feature close upwards of 100), Galliano employed quirky tailoring techniques on pieces that tricked the eye into thinking it was one thing (are those pants buttoned around the model's neck?) but in the end were actually another (oh, that's a dress!). Still, it was a restrained collection for these wild times, so what could Galliano be trying to communicate through his choice medium? Maybe, the one-time king of theatrics and hedonism is over the the world's self-indulgent ways and wants to create long-lasting products that challenge conventions. Or maybe I'm just reading too much into things? Either way, the collection is sure to be a hit with his Gen Z fans who use their wardrobe as armor.
Nikki Ogunnaike is the senior digital director of Harper's Bazaar, where she oversees a team of editors and writers who cover the culture of style across the website, video, and social media. She has previously held roles at GQ, ELLE, Glamour, InStyle, and Vanity Fair. You may also recognize Nikki from her time as the host of Snapchat’s Online, IRL and IGTV's The Run Through. In her free time Nikki enjoys running half marathons, learning about wine, and watching reality TV without an ounce of shame.
Maison Margiela Fall 2018
Maison Margiela Fall/Winter 2017
Masion Margiela Spring-Summer Couture 2017
Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2017
