The Best Looks From Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2023

There’s only one word to describe Matthieu Blazy’s vision for Bottega Veneta: epic. For the uninitiated, this is the third and final installment in Blazy’s series of “Italia” shows, honoring the everyday cast of characters the designer encounters on the regular in Milan. This time, he turned the dial up to 11, making day-to-day looks fantastical, sculptural, and rife with imagination, drawing from Milanese layering codes (why wear one shirt when you could wear three?) and Umberto Boccioni sculptures. Leather was, again, the name of the game here, with knit sock boots and sweaters rendered in nappa leather, plus leather paper shopping bags, a variety of new top-handle and bucket bags, and pumps for men and women. There is so much drama and precision in the clothing that the pieces could come off as stuffy, but with Blazy’s unbridled passion, the 80-plus look show feels like just the tip of his proverbial iceberg, and by far the most exciting show of the week.—Kevin LeBlanc, fashion associate

There’s a reason why Giorgio Armani is still the undisputed king of Italian fashion almost 60 years into his career. His singular vision for Italian luxury never wavers, always delivering on the premise of sprezzatura, an insouciance that’s always refined. The collection was titled “Cipria” (translation: face powder), taking notes from the intimate act of applying makeup. The blush and beige tones were complemented by the striking marble in Armani’s HQ, where he typically hosts his shows. Not to mention, the clothes were as relaxed as ever, with hints of boudoir and pajama dressing highlighting the ease of the collection. Hints of sparkle via beaded caps and shawls gave the extra oomph, much like a sparkly eyeshadow might. The final model even held due ciprie, because we could all probably use a little touch-up every now and then.—Kevin LeBlanc, fashion associate

Dolce&Gabbana is continuing the sensuality the house honed in on last season with the “Ciao Kim” collection, doing what it does best with body-hugging slip dresses. The color palette this time around was equally refined, with black looks taking up over half the runway. Red, silver, and gold spotlighted the dramatic, slink effect of it all, plus coordinating bags and dramatic sunglasses that provided the ultimate air of mystery for the ever-enchanting D&G woman.—Kevin LeBlanc, fashion associate

Maximilan Davis presented his third collection for Ferragamo, with an extensive range that honed in on ’50s dressing, but for the future. Davis took cues from the likes of Marilyn Monroe and Sophia Loren to create a glamorous, highly minimal wardrobe that relied on deft cuts like this opening cocoon coat. The color palette was decisive, with slashes of red on black layers and monochromatic blue and yellow looks with hints of slate grey and a singular leopard print. The footwear drew inspiration from an 18-karat gold release made in 1956, with angular, geometric heels and toes in patent black, red, and gold. The end result was something aspirational and very, very luxe, nodding to the past but looking forward, with a highly edited, curated lineup that was almost too polished, if there was such a thing.—Kevin LeBlanc, fashion associate

Every season, Jil Sander continues to innovate even more with exquisite tailoring and minimalist layering. Taking lots of inspiration from motorcycle attire, this collection approached oversized leather with a new sense of chicness. More of Sander’s pieces showed off artful prints combined with flowy, longer proportions—including a parade of zebra and cherry-printed graphics alongside texturized flowers that contoured the shape of each garment.—Ashley Lambert, freelance fashion assistant

Tomo Koizumi is a designer known for his extravagant use of tulle and his unmatched ability to create a defined feminine shape among excessive layers of polyester organza. This season, Koizumi presented his latest collection, “Don’t Forget to Bring Flowers,” with the support of Dolce&Gabbana. For the first half of the collection, the designer drew inspiration from the D&G archives, integrating traditional corsetry into his world of voluminous garments. Gradually, a snowball effect took place, and the resulting looks became more and more gigantic and flamboyant. The end result was a collection celebrating body positivity and self-expression. What could be better than that?—Karla Lopez, freelance fashion assistant